
This is the answer.
Cheap fast and small computers to surf the web, draft documents, do spreadsheets, play games, and even program? And yes we do indeed mean ‘pocket sized’ here, as you can see in the photo below.

And all that for under $120? Yup.
If you are a dedicated tech head, this post will not be news to you. But for the casual techgear aficionado with an eye for bargains, read on because this is most definitely a good one for your toolbox and wallet.
“It’s hard to say no to the performance-cost ratio.“
It Really Is Different Now
The Raspberry Pi is close to a decade old, yet it remains for many the realm of the computer hobbyist. That made sense years back when it was less powerful and therefore more limited to a teaching role.
The Raspberry Pi Foundation developed this small computer to introduce children to technology concepts, hardware and software interaction, and relatable ‘building out’ of simple projects using a single board computer. And it still does all that.

But the possibilities have broadened over the years, particularly with the Raspberry Pi 4 Model B introduced in 2018.
In 2020, the foundation came out with an 8GB RAM model, coupled with 1GB Ethernet for fast networking. That eased processing load and heightened browsing options.
And as pictured below, all of this capability, plus power adapter, switch, mouse, keyboard, and HDMI cabling, can fit in a zip-lock bag. It’s hard to say no to the performance now available at the price points offered.

Capable and Mobile
So with that introduction, we are going to build a Pi below. And I’d encourage you to think about doing the same. The reasons are simple: a cheap fast and small computer
As mentioned, you have a credit card sized computer (without case) that can now run a user friendly version of Linux, that will enable you to conveniently carry the equivalent of a laptop or desktop computer in your pocket, in a backpack. In a sock. Whatever.
“With the capabilities of a Pi 4, you’re a hotel TV away from surprising power.”
If you are on the road, just add a portable keyboard, mouse, and a few cables. You are a hotel room television away from surprising power. A full office suite (word processing, spreadsheets, presentation software), and online research capabilities are at your fingertips.
Same thing with a trip to a client site. Do they have a conference room with a television? Well you have wifi, bluetooth, Ethernet, 2.0 and 3.0 USB’s.
That means easy ways to plug in multiple client peripherals or your own. The ability to easily showcase your work or discuss a problem with a client using the same capabilities as a full-size computer.
You can read more about Linux here, if it is new to you.
The Parts List
Assuming you’ve been won over, let’s dig into how to get up and running with the Raspberry Pi 4. I’ve included links throughout to buy what I run.

The layout I’ve chosen is a nice mix between power and price. The parts are so inexpensive that it makes sense to splurge on the most powerful RAM (8GB) and good storage (32GB). Note, the difference in price between this Pi 4 and the 4GB version is nominal.
The List
- Raspberry Pi 4 Computer Model B – 8 GB
- Micro HDMI to HDMI Adapter Cable
- Samsung 32GB mcros SDHC with Adapter
- Raspberry Pi 4 Case with Fan & Heat Sink
The total cost of these items is currently $115.46. A quality folding keyboard and wireless mouse would add another $42.98.
But for most computer users, there always seems to be an extra mouse and a keyboard laying around. The question is how small do you want to get your whole setup? (I opted for the folding keyboard for this reason. But again… potentially unnecessary.)
“You get nice extras for short money.”
I’d recommend springing for the Canakit above because beyond the Pi 4, it includes the power cable, power adapter, heat sinks, and switch. Same thing with the case. It includes a fan. You get nice extras for short money.
In both cases you can get this setup cheaper by avoiding fans, on/off switches, and even a case! But for true utility, I believe the above makes the most sense. It makes for ease of use, portability, and cooling.
Setting It Up
Start with case disassembly. Pop the case apart. It is NOT screwed together. Simply pry it apart.

Now utilizing the four short screws, install your Pi 4 into the case (carefully). Remember to ‘spark off’ any static electricity by touching something metal BEFORE you touch your new Pi motherboard.

Fan Install. As mentioned, this is optional. But the cost of a case that includes a fan is so low, it simply is false economy to do otherwise. You don’t want to overheat key components.

The fan goes into the top of the case. We again use the enclosed screws and even a supplied screwdriver. Note these are the longer screws of the two sets provided. Carefully follow the included diagram to ensure the fan is in the correct orientation and direction.

We are now on to the heat sinks. These are important to draw heat from the CPU, RAM, and Controllers…particularly if you didn’t buy a case with a fan. There is adhesive on the backside. Remove the protective film and carefully press onto the relevant points as pictured.

What’s Next?
The directions call for the installation of the main case next. I would advise against that. Instead install the fan into the pins of the Pi 4.
“Follow the directions. Mostly.”
You have two options for this install (per the included diagram with your Pi). Depending on pins selected, you’ll be running the fan at either 3.3 volts or 5 volts.
I find 3.3 volt to be fine. This isn’t a super computer. Multiple people complain of the noise of the fan. There is no noise at a 3.3V setting, so they are most likely running their fans at the higher 5V.

Now manuever the main case around your case top by feeding it through the openings in the main case. Be careful to note the ‘snap in points’ so you don’t orient the case in a way where connections don’t line up. Note also that the fan above has already been attached to the motherboard per the step above.
Snap the main case into the bottom of the case. As you do so, you’ll realize why we ignored the recommended step in the instructions. It is very hard for anyone with big hands to get those fan wires on those pins at this point, as is the recommended order.
Install the rubber pads on the underside of the case.
Almost There
Drive formatting. You can save some money if you do NOT buy the microSD that comes preformatted and loaded with Raspberry Pi OS (formerly Raspbian). But to do so, you’ll need to format the microSD yourself. I use Tuxera to do this. It’s free.
“Review the microSD card specs before buying.”
And as listed above, we use a Class 10 microSDHC UHS-I Card. The approach may differ slightly if you have a microSD larger than 32GB as suggested in this write-up.

Place the microSD in the provided adapter. In the photo, you can just make out the green border of the small SD slipped in the adapter. Install this adapter in your computer’s SD drive or in a USB peripheral drive.
After downloading the software from Tuxera, follow the instructions. You’ll get a formatting screen. Note that it shows what drive you are going to be formatting and the size of your to-be-formatted media.
This is vital to get right. You don’t want to format an unintended drive. So take care to review the drive letter and capacity to confirm they match your expectation.

Proceed with the formatting. It may take a while. Eject after verification completes.
Now head over to the official Raspberry Pi OS software repository to load your operating system. I’m assuming you are going with Raspberry Pi, but there are other options for an OS here. We won’t get into them, but you might.
The directions are very clear cut here. The drop-down menu will walk you through the options. The only thing to note is that your microSD is still in your computer (not your raspberry pi) at this point.
So you’ve formatted the microSD, loaded your raspberry operating system, and the the installer has verified the program. You’ve got a working OS.
Now remove the SD adapter from your computer. Remove the microSD from the adapter and flip your Raspberry Pi over.
Install the microSD into the appropriate slot on the underside of your Raspberry Pi. There is only one slot, and it will only go in one way. Be gentle with it and don’t push too hard. It will be a firm fit but it shouldn’t be forced.
Powering Up
Now hook the power cable into the Pi USB-C connection. But don’t turn it on. We need to hook up the other items.
Install the microHDMI cable into the Pi. This cable goes right next to the power (USB-C) connection. If you put it in the wrong microHDMI slot you’ll have a blank TV screen.
Install your keyboard into one of the USB slots on the end of the Pi. Install your mouse into one of the USB slots on the end of the Pi.
Make sure your TV is switched to HDMI-1 or a similar option.
Now push the power button on the power cord switch. You should see your new Raspberry Pi come alive and start it’s first loading of software and updates! You’ll also connect to your wireless router at this point, so have your password handy.
Lastly, you can select additional software packages by going to the drop down menu on your Pi. The options are self-explanatory at this point. My one strong recommend would be to load the office suite. If you use this set-up for on-the-go office work, it’s an unbeatable option at the price point of zero!